Port to Port: A Sojourn to Remember

Two weeks ago, I filled my ageing minivan with members of the Museum of Old Newbury, and we set off on our (second annual) Summer Sojourn to Portsmouth. Last year we followed artist Cecilia Beaux around Gloucester. Each year we set off in a merry band to test my theory that Newbury(port) is the center of the universe. 

The gun ship USS Washington by John S. Blunt

This year’s sojourn began with a close examination of paintings of the Washington and the Constitution by artist John Blunt that hang in the front hall of the Cushing House. Board member and American art expert Monica Reuss kicked off the day with an insightful examination of the paintings, and then we were off to Portsmouth. The Washington (above, launched in 1814) was the first ship built in the Portsmouth Naval Shipyard (PNSY), and so this was our first stop. Actually, we stopped in the parking lot of the USS Albacore, where we loaded onto a United States Navy bus where, as the carefully vetted guests of the Navy, we were charmed and enlightened by historian Joseph Gluckert. 

I’ll spare you the full travelogue, but anyone who knows me has heard about the PNSY cemetery, though I was unaware that behind the Portsmouth Naval Shipyard Heritage Center, there is also a pet cemetery that contains the worldly remains of Old Tom, a United States Marine (horse), born in 1892. He served in Cuba and was retired in 1928 before dying in 1933, at the ripe old age of 39. I connect to the experience of animals the way some people connect to ceramics or wear patterns on floorboards, and so, perhaps uniquely for me, visiting Old Tom enriched the experience immensely. 

Inside the center is a great deal of information on the activities of the PNSY from the distant to the recent past, presided over by a group of enthusiastic volunteers, including World War II veteran Bill Tebo. Many of us spent some extra time with the model and memorial to the Thresher submarine, lost in 1963 with all hands, many with ties to Newburyport.

The U.S.S Thresher, seen here at her launch in 1960, was lost on April 10, 1963. The entire crew of 129 died and are memorialized at the Portsmouth Naval Shipyard Heritage Center. 

The afternoon began standing outside the Portsmouth Atheneum, discussing all the ways that Newburyport and Portsmouth had inspired each other. Once inside, we ogled the “pinky sky” in their famous Blunt painting, Piscataqua River from Noble's Wharf and discussed the future (and the past) of books and newspapers in the company of their gracious director, Tom Hardiman.

This painting by John Blunt hangs in the Portsmouth Athenaeum

Heading inside

Learning about the 2nd & 3rd floor library from Director Tom Hardiman.

We closed our day wandering through the enchanting gardens and exploring the jaw-dropping décor (and a staff favorite, the 1869 composting toilet) at the Moffatt-Ladd House. 

Inside Portsmouth’s 1763 Moffatt-Ladd house.

The height of modern convenience - a Moule's Patented Earth Commode, c. 1869, fascinated our group during the house tour.

I rolled back into town late in the afternoon, grinning from ear to ear. My history cup was full. I can’t wait to find more proof that Newbury(port) is the center of the universe as we plan next year’s sojourn!

The annual Summer Sojourn is a members-only event. Join us for this and many other adventures all year-round by becoming a member.